PHILIP LARDOT & STEIN WEINE, MOSEL GERMANY
Ulli Stein produces his wines on the steep hills of the Mosel area in Germany, with some spectacular views. Which is not easy, because some vineyards are so steep that it takes a lot of labour and money to produce wines here. Due to this reason, much of the vineyards around the Mosel area have been abandoned for decades and weeds and trees have taken over the plots.
But luckily, Ulli is one of the rebel winemakers in the area that started to make his wines on these abandoned plots and brought the vineyards back to life. Considering that most of them were in the periphery of German winemaking for a long time, most plots are ungrafted.
Most of Ullis vines are between 50 and 80 years old, and due to that, 90% percent of them are ungrafted. Which is unique.
Being the rebel of the forgotten sites of the Mosel, Ulli always stood strong against the sometimes ridiculous rules of the German government. For instance, it used to be forbidden to produce red wines in the Mosel area. Why, nobody knew it. But this important battle Ulli already won; he now makes red wine in the area; his Spätburgunder Red light.
Ulli has help in the winery from Philip Lardot, a young, Dutch/Finnish winemaker. After working several years around the world, New Zealand, Australia and France, he decided to start looking for a place to stay and make wine. His mind was set on Loire, but after doing another harvest in Mosel at Clemens Busch he fell in love with this area. So he convinced his girlfriend to move to Germany. After half a year he met Ulli Stein, a 70 year old winemaker that owns several very old and steep vineyards all over the area. Luckily, Ulli was looking for an apprentice, a helpful winemaker that someday would be able to take over his precious winery. And so it began.
Ulli and Philip are now making wine together for almost two years and they love to experiment. Especially with making wines as naturally as possible. Ullis wines have always been made of his organic grapes, with low alcohol and low sulfites. Philip helps him in his vineyards and cellar, in exchange of that Philip can produce his own wines in this cellar too. From this year he owns his own plots of vines in the area, so the adventure can really begin now. At the moment he made a Pinot noir and this Riesling Der Graf.
The dry Riesling from Stein is like a sweet and sour apricot candy. It has such a good acidity, very well in balance with the hint of sugar in the end. Low in alcohol too. You can always drink this.
Philips Riesling is one of a kind. Good minerality, with good flavors of the malolactic fermentation which is special for a Riesling. Nice firm acidity what makes you want to drink more. And more.